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Skip to content Al Vinitaly, il Grillo si conferma il vitigno principe “identitario” della produzione vitivinicola siciliana, con una produzione che è cresciuta dai 2000 ettari di vent’anni fa agli 8000 di oggi. Antonio Rallo: “Siamo passati dai 12 ai 23 milioni di bottiglie. C’è ancora spazio per crescere, puntiamo agli 80 milioni”
IL GRILLO È IL VITIGNO BIANCO IDENTITARIO DELLA SICILIA Una varietà resistente, versatile e adattabile come poche che sta facendo passi da gigante conquistando il cuore e il palato dei consumatori. È il Grillo, vitigno a bacca bianca autoctono della Sicilia, coltivato oggi per ben 8000 ettari rispetto ai 2000 di poco più di vent’anni fa. Con un’espansione che si è quadruplicata, questo vino incontra grande interesse sui mercati italiani ed esteri.
I DATI DALL’OSSERVATORIO La conferma arriva anche dall’Osservatorio sulla competitività delle regioni italiane del vino realizzata da Wine Monitor Nomisma per conto di Unicredit . L’analisi, realizzata da Denis Pantini , responsabile Nomisma Wine Monitor , ha rilevato il dato di crescita in termini competitività qualitativa nei consumi di vini bianchi siciliani all’estero, con il Grillo in testa, seguito da altre varietà bianche autoctone come il Catarratto e il Carricante . A comporre lo scenario positivo per i vini bianchi siciliani anche il contributo dei bio e naturali che, seppur di nicchia, concorrono ad incrementare i volumi sul mercato.
FOCUS SUL GRILLO AL VINITALY Il focus dal titolo “Grillo Doc Sicilia , un caso di successo ” ha visto tra i partecipanti in primis il presidente del Consorzio Doc Sicilia , Antonio Rallo . “Negli anni 2022-2023 abbiamo registrato una crescita da 153 mila a177 mila ettolitri . Se pensiamo – ha osservato – che sette anni fa le bottiglie prodotte erano 12 milioni e oggi sono più di 23 milioni, cioè con un incremento del 15% è un ottimo risultato . Abbiamo fatto tanta strada e tanta ancora ne possiamo fare ”.
All’incontro moderato dal giornalista del Corriere della Sera Luciano Ferraro , hanno preso parte anche Roberto Ragona (Canino Srl), Rossella Cernuto (Nielsen), Veronika Crecelius (Weinwirtschaft di Meininger) Filippo Bartolotta (wine educator).
“Nel 2023 la Sicilia ha prodotto mediamente il 40% in meno di uve – ha proseguito Antonio Rallo – un trend in linea con la Doc Sicilia (-32%) e con i risultati della vendemmia. Anche il Grillo ha segnato un -25% “ma i 226 mila ettolitri prodotti ci permetteranno di replicare il risultato dello scorso anno ”.
LA STORIA DEL GRILLO La storia del Grillo è sorprendente se si pensa che prima del 1910 non ce n’era traccia sui libri di enologia. Era solo un vitigno che rientrava nell’assemblaggio del Marsala. Solo fra il 1910 e il 1940 – con lo zampino degli inglesi – il Grillo divenne il vitigno principe dell’areale del trapanese spodestando Catarratto, Insolia, Damaskino, Catanese bianca, fino a quel momento le uve canoniche per la produzione del Marsala e ad inventarlo fu il barone Antonio Mendola (Favara 1828-1908), ampelografo, uno studioso con mille interessi fra cui la genetica botanica sulla quale intratteneva corrispondenza con un certo Darwin. Il barone Mendola ideò l’incrocio fra il grintoso Catarratto e l’elegante Zibibbo, per ottenere un ibrido con le migliori virtù di entrambi: il Grillo. È il vino più “caleidoscopio” che esista in Sicilia – per utilizzare le parole del Master of Wine Pietro Russo – declinato in più di 70 variazioni (dallo spumante al passito, con vigne che si trovano dal livello del mare fino 600 metri d’altezza).
“IL SALTO DEL GRILLO” In termini di vendite, il Grillo è stato “eccezionale” secondo l’analisi di Rossella della Nielsen società leader nelle ricerche di mercato. “Un vero salto del grillo – lo ha definito – perché crescere nel contesto di crisi e di inflazione nel quale ci troviamo sfiorando un +20% è un risultato eccezionale . Stiamo ancora riassorbendo la “bolla” della pandemia e, dal 2020 ad oggi, i volumi di vendita solo calati con i consumatori che cercano di difendersi come possono dagli aumenti dei prezzi, ma in questa situazione fa eccezione il vino doc bianco (+1,1%) e all’interno di questo dato il Grillo ha contribuito in larga parte con un volume percentuale del 5,5% . I fattori di crescita sono la domanda crescente del prodotto e la forte territorialità distintiva che collega indissolubilmente il Grillo alla Sicilia ”.
BOOM IN GERMANIA Un boom registrato anche in Germania come ha confermato Veronika Crecelius . “Il Grillo negli ultimi 10 anni ha sorpassato tutti gli altri vini. Nel 2023, solo nella Gdo superiore ai 220 mq la Doc Grillo ha collocato tre milioni di bottiglie. Nel principale sito di e-commerce del vino ci sono a disposizione ben 16 etichette, tre sono di Catarratto e una di Insolia . In Germania rappresenta il vino bianco e si trova nell’e-commerce in una fascia di prezzo amplissima che va dai 6,90 ai 52 euro . Nei ristoranti, invece, non è ancora molto conosciuto e necessita di una promozione ad hoc ”.
Sui mercati USA e UK il Grillo incuriosisce buyer, importatori, giornalisti, influencer. “Mostriamo questo vitigno come bandiera – ha raccontato Filippo Bartolotta -. Gli asset sui quali si basa il suo successo sono diversi . È un vitigno tardivo, rappresenta una vera cartina di tornasole della Sicilia con tutte le espressioni nei diversi areali di produzione, ha un nome che vuol in inglese vuol dire ‘portafortuna’ , si pronuncia facilmente e se ne ricavano vini immediati modello pinot grigio che piace tanto all’estero . Vini reattivi, tesi, che sembrano semplici , ma che semplici non sono . Il Grillo è un ‘finto semplice’ di altissima complessità . Ora bisogna investire in termini di branding e lavorare in termini di posizionamento sui mercati ”.
Al Focus è seguita un’articolata master class condotta dal Master of Wine Pietro Russo che ha rivelato di essere “particolarmente legato a questo vitigno ” e ne ha descritto con passione e competenza – bicchiere alla mano – le infinite sfaccettature “non solo territoriali ma anche di metodo, di stile, di storia ” sottolineandone la resilienza ai cambiamenti climatici e la capacità di adattamento alle condizioni di stress termico mantenendo un alto tasso di acidità, caratteristica fondamentale per i vini bianchi.
Fonte immagine di copertina Pixabay.
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